Recorded Talks

Journalist, Richa Goyal Sikri explores the complex fabric of India’s love affair with jewels, it’s 5,000 year-old history, notable periods, differences within the Indian subcontinent, and how India has influenced jewellery styles beyond it’s shores. The second part of Richa’s presentation will de-mystify the ancient polki-kundan technique of jewellery craftsmanship involving the setting of wafer-thin slices of diamonds, coloured gemstones in gold, and how artisans continue to use champlevé enamel technique in this jewelled art form.

Les automates ; ces merveilles d'art, de poésie et d'ingénierie animés par des mécanismes horlogers tels que des engrenages et des ressorts imitent la vie et nous fascinent depuis des siècles. Intimement liés à l'horlogerie et à son histoire, ces objets de mécanique d'art restent moins connus que nos célèbres montres suisses ! Et pourtant, leurs rouages sont tout autant, et parfois même plus complexes.

La table ronde abordera l'histoire de ces objets fascinants tout en contextualisant leur protée symbolique et leur complexité. Même à l'ère des objets électroniques et de la robotique, leur poésie n'a pas perdu de son charme, et suscite toujours l'émerveillement – notamment au travers des créations célébrées de François Junod.

Enfin, les enjeux liés à la conservation et à la restauration de ces objets lorsqu'ils deviennent patrimoniaux seront abordés à travers la paire d'impressionnants éléphants conservés par le Musée d'Art et d'histoire de Genève que l'exposition de GemGenève à le privilège d'exposer cette année au sein de son exposition dédiée à ces objets captivants.

In this talk, jewellery historian Vivienne Becker celebrates the extraordinary work of renowned artist, sculptor, poet-goldsmith, Daniel Brush, who died late last year. Charting the course of his career that spanned more than 50 years, she explains the philosophy, thought-provoking ideas and obsessive preoccupations that stimulated his febrile imagination and drove the awe-inspiring techniques that gave voice to his artistry. She follows his exploration of materials, from gold, through steel to aluminium, and his ability to paint with light. Finally, she shows how Brush pushed boundaries, broke barriers, challenged conventions and crossed disciplines with equal passion and perfection – moving seamlessly from large scale paintings, through sculptures and objects to intricate, intimate, storytelling jewels, and discusses the exalted place Daniel Brush occupies in the long history of jewellery.

Couvrant une période de 4000 ans, Anna présentera des solutions de fermoirs mettant en parallèle des fermoirs anciens et contemporains. Une étude spécifique mettra en lumière les recherches ayant abouti à la découverte de l’origine de la boite-cliquet - révélée pour le première fois. Une seconde étude mettra l'accent sur les fermoirs d'Europe du Nord et les solutions originales utilisées en Allemagne, Suisse et Autriche, à savoir : le "Halsbätti mit Röslistücken von Nidwaldner", le "Kropfkette ou chaîne de goitre" et le "Bückeburger Hochzeitskette Brautkette Bernstein", pour certains toujours en usage aujourd'hui.

Le sujet de la table ronde gravite autour de l'approvisionnement des matières gemmes. Comment trouve t'on nos gemmes? À travers quels critères se prennent les décisions d'achat ? Marketing, éthique, communication, voici des notions que vous retrouverez durant cette rencontre.

An excursus with some of the key protagonists of vintage and antique jewelry industry with the aim to better focus on what is next and what is changing in the overall business model.

Through the panelists’ testimonies, we will discover in which way vintage and antique jewelry is playing a strong role in the industry and which are the challenges and best practice leading these changes.

We will be talking about heritage and legacy, new consumers, the digital transformation, key trends.

This new educational-promotional session at GemGenève will provide a unique opportunity for exhibitors to share with the audience their most favorite Art Deco jewel and explain the reasons of their particular choice. What will become apparent is how behind each great jewel there is always a great expert with an exceptional eye. Amanda Triossi will help unravel the stories that have forged such great experts, probably the most hidden gems of GemGenève!

This presentation explores the fantastic world of semi-precious stones and their use in pictorial mosaics, a rare and sophisticated art that exploits the natural chromatic qualities of hardstones to create what really is a painting in stone.
In the Florentine late Renaissance, lapidaries at the Granducal court of the Medici family were fascinated by the infinite range of colours of stones and began to improve the intarsia or ‘commesso’ process to produce pietra dura panels depicting various subjects such as flowers, landscapes, figures, and animals. Mastering the palette of natural colors offered by nature through the stones, they managed to obtain virtuoso effects resembling painted brushstrokes.
The unique technique was perfected thanks to collaboration between lapidaries, jewelersand painters – and the determination of the Medici Grand Dukes in Florence, who invested huge resources and energy in the pietra dura workshop, officially established by Ferdinando I de’ Medici in 1588 under the name of Galleria dei Lavori.
The Florentine Grand Dukes promoted the sourcing of rare precious and semiprecious stones and the exploration of local quarries in order to supply the needs of mosaic production. But the quest for materials went well beyond the borders of the grand-duchy territories, reaching as far afield as Corsica, Sicily, the Alps, Germany, and even South America and India.

The semi-precious stone mosaic became a typical Florentine art, and the craftsmen of the grand ducal workshop were invited to various European royal courts between the 1600s and 1700s to found manufacturies similar to the Florentine one. Because of the pieces’ worth and uniqueness, commissions for pietra dura jewels, snuffboxes, wall panels, cabinets, caskets and table tops were the preserve of nobles and aristocrats.
Only in Florence has this tradition been perpetuated, thanks to the creation of independent pietra dura studios during the nineteenth century.
This talk will be accompanied by a wide selection of slides showing some of the most spectacular and rare Florentine works of art in semi-precious stones, much sought-after by passionate collectors today and commanding some of the highest prices in the art market.

Anna Maria Massinelli will be signing her book at the Letu Books booth after her talk.

Katerina Perez will converse with Donatella Zappieri about the evolution of jewellery in terms of communication, design, sales and marketing within the last 10 years. We will also dwell on what the future of jewellery looks like.

‘Sapphire’ will take you on a journey of the gem, from antiquity to the present day. We delve into the unexplained talismanic powers bestowed on sapphire during the Middle Ages while being treated with caution in other parts of the world. Sapphire was often the stone of choice for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, and its popularity has continued with other members of the royal family. We look at jewellery collections of the glitterati socialites, such as Daisy Fellowes, the Duchess of Windsor and Elizabeth Taylor, and hear about the lure of collecting sapphires for three private collectors today, who have generously and for the first time allowed their sapphire jewels to be documented.

Joanna’s personal journeys to Myanmar (Burma), Sri Lanka and Madagascar explore the mining of sapphires today giving a window into the extraordinary world of sapphire and its many colours. Sapphire joins Emerald and Ruby to complete her trilogy of books that celebrate these gemstones.

Depuis la nuit des temps, l’homme voue aux gemmes une valeur symbolique représentative du pouvoir, de la protection, de l’expression des sentiments. Associées au bijou et au portrait, elles ont une signification qui va bien au-delà de l’art du paraître. L’orfèvre connaît le langage des pierres que le peintre décline de façon symbolique ou conventionnelle. Utilisant le support de la peinture, la conférence aborde les thèmes suivants :

- Le langage des gemmes dans les sources écrites et leur symbolique en peinture

- Les mondes antiques (Egypte, Grèce, Rome) : des pierres pour l’éternité

- L’art du portrait, du gothique tardif au début du XXème siècle : le bijou témoin de la mode et de son temps

Considéré comme le plus talentueux orfèvre du monde à l'aube du XXe siècle, Carl Fabergé, inspire naturellement ses contemporains et notamment les orfèvres et les joailliers français au premier rang desquels on trouve Cartier.

Alfred Cartier et ses fils découvrent véritablement Fabergé lors de l'Exposition universelle de 1900. Impressionné par la qualité des objets présentés par l'orfèvre russe, les Cartier vont y puiser une source d'inspiration féconde qui participera grandement à la création du style de la Maison de la rue de la Paix lors des premières années du XXe siècle.

Speaker: Olivier Bachet 

Annonce du thème du Concours de Gouachés 2023 - ETVJ x CFP Arts Genève x CPNE Pôle Arts Appliqués

Suivi du workshop La conceptualisation d’un design, par Elizabeth Fischer (professeure à la HEAD Genève).

Speakers: Emmanuelle Garcia-Gavillet, Richard Carbonnelle, Tiffany Bähler, Ronny Totah, Thomas Faerber, François Monnin et Tony Marchese

Journalist and storyteller, Richa Goyal Sikri, has been visiting coloured gemstone mines and manufacturing centers since 2014. Her quest for greater understanding as a connoisseur of gemstones was pivotal in her development as an international journalist, storyteller, and speaker in the industry. In this exclusive presentation, she shares historical insights, and deconstructs artisanal mining for sapphires in Sri Lanka, and large-scale emerald mining in Zambia.

Speaker: Richa Goyal Sikri

Amanda Triossi brings a first-hand history of this iconic Italian jeweller, having worked with the Bulgari family in creating the brands heritage collection, in writing multiple volumes and essays and curating the first major retrospective exhibitions. From its Greek origins to its instantly recognized bold expressions , Amanda will explain with unique insight the developement of Bulgari’s design and style.

Speaker: Amanda Triossi 

A Grand tour around the XVIII and XIX century production, from the origins in Rome to the Napoleonic court and the archaeological revival.

In the late XVIII century the ancient large-scale architectural mosaics were brought down, in Rome, from the churches ceilings to the decorative arts that enchanted the imperial Napoleonic court and the Grand Tourists who crowded the Urbe. Miniature mosaics or ‘micromosaics’ alongside with gemstones, coral, miniature portraits and cameos, were included in the spectacular production of jewels for the imperial court. One of the main suppliers of mosaics for the Napoleonic entourage was the celebrated mosaic master and lapidary Giacomo Raffaelli (1753-1836). He was responsible for the creation of a fashionable trend that lasted throughout the nineteenth century.
After the first exhibition of micromosaic objets de vertu in the Raffaelli Studio in Rome, in 1775, this genre became an obsession: no fop English gentleman could avoid flaunting a precious snuffbox with a micromosaic lid and no fashionable lady could give up a jewel with a butterfly or a Roman mosaic view resulting from the brilliant imagination of Raffaelli.
The success of this new way to apply mosaic stimulated a vast commercial production that involved the many virtuous artists who practiced this unique technique in their studios scattered around the Spanish Steps in Rome.
When, forward in the nineteenth century, the path of the mosaic jewel seemed to turn towards an irreversible repetition, the Castellani firm renewed the iconographic repertoire of micromosaic and brought it back to the fore through their intriguing production of archaelogical revival jewelry.
The presentation will involve the public in this fascinating season of the typically Roman jewelry style through a rich documentation of painted portraits and extraordinary pieces belonging to the major public and private collections. 

Speakers: Anna Maria Massinelli and Andrea Petochi  

What Makes Exceptional Design, panel discussion moderated by Katerina Perez (influencer), with David Roux-Fouillet (Head of the Department of Product Design, Jewellery and Accessories, HEAD Geneva), Olivier Bachet (expert) and Vivienne Becker (jewellery historian, author).

Speakers: Katerina Perez, Vivienne Becker, David Roux-Fouillet, Olivier Bachet and Alix Dumas 

Speakers: l’Association Gemmologie & Francophonie sur les enjeux de la dénomination des pierres précieuses et aspects juridiques, avec Drew Battaglia (experte en joaillerie et gemmologue), Aurélien Delaunay (Commission Diamant et Commission Gemmologique CIBJO, Représentant à l’ISO pour la France), Emmanuel Fritsch (enseignant-chercheur à l’Institut des Matériaux Jean Roule, Nantes ; Membre de l’International Mineralogical Association), Emmanuel Piat (Négociant en gemmes, Vice-Président de la Commission Pierres de couleurs CIBJO), Thomas Hainschwang (Antonio C. Bonanno Award for Excellence in Gemology, Inventeur de la technique d’imagerie et de spectroscopie DFI, Gemmologue), Enzo Liverino (Président de Commission Corail CIBJO), modérée par Boris Chauviré et Marie Chabrol (Enseignante à l’Institut de Bijouterie de Saumur, Journaliste et Consultante).

'Dans le domaine de l’art, les experts mènent le bal…. Ont-ils vraiment tous les pouvoirs ?'
Etienne Dumont, Bilan, novembre 2013

Le marché de l’art est un domaine très complexe, car l’histoire de l’art évolue sans cesse, des comités, experts, spécialistes se consacrent à des artistes en particulier et font autorité tandis que les avis des ayants droit peuvent être guidés par un intérêt hégémonique ou pécuniaire.

La responsabilité encourue par l’expert indépendant pouvant-être de nature contractuelle, délictuelle ou quasi-délictuelle, suivant l’étendue de ses obligations et le cadre dans lequel il intervient, la tendance est aujourd’hui à la précaution.

Qu’il s’agisse des ventes de gré à gré ou des ventes aux enchères publiques, la responsabilité pesant sur l’expert en œuvres d’art tend à devenir de plus en plus lourde, dans un contexte fortement spéculatif, où l’œuvre d’art constitue davantage un placement qu’un « achat-plaisir » pour nombre de collectionneurs fortunés, pointilleux et regardants.

Au regard de cette responsabilité accrue et vu la tendance à intenter des procès, parfois la prudence veut, par exemple, que l’on « attribue » une œuvre à « Fabergé » plutôt que d’attester qu’elle est de lui.

Speakers: La Fondation Igor Carl Fabergé - Bernard Ivaldi, Michel Kamidian, Alexandra Blin Kourbatoff, Marie-Cécile Cisamolo et Bernard Piguet 

Cette discussion se déroulera entre Sophie Bärtschi, Conservatrice, responsable des collections des Site et Musée romains d’Avenches, et Alice Minter, Conservateur de la Collection Rosalinde & Arthur Gilbert au Victoria and Albert Museum de Londres, et sera animée par Gislain Aucremanne (Historien du bijou).

Bien que le terme « micro-mosaïque » soit aujourd’hui associé aux mosaïques créées depuis la fin du XVIIIe siècle, l’ambition de produire des mosaïques les plus fines possibles, avec des éléments de verre (ou de pierre) pratiquement miniatures, existait bel et bien déjà dans l’Antiquité.

Au cours de cette discussion, les deux expertes vont amener leurs mondes à se croiser afin d’explorer leurs apparentes similitudes et leurs intrinsèques divergences, et convenir des enjeux pour conserver et présenter ces chefs d’œuvre au grand public.

Speakers:  Alice Minter, Sophie Bärtschi et Gislain Aucremanne 

Jewelry historian Vivienne Becker and Helen Molesworth, The Dr Geneviève Davies, Senior Curator of Jewellery, Victoria & Albert Museum, London

Together Vivienne Becker and Helen Molesworth discuss the role of the Museum Collection, as both education and inspiration, in our jewellery world today. They will talk about the relevance of jewellery history to contemporary design, the importance of looking back in order to look forward, of understanding what has gone before in order to be truly innovative. They will also discuss today’s fast-growing appreciation of antique and 20th century jewellery, and Vivienne will ask Helen about her new role at the V&A and how she plans to fuse antiquity and modernity, to be part of the continuum of the long and fascinating story of jewellery. 

Speakers:  Helen Molesworth and Vivienne Becker 

The Rosalinde and Arthur Gilbert collection is one of the most comprehensive collections of micromosaics in the world. In fact, Arthur Gilbert coined the term ‘micromosaic’ himself and supported the pioneering publications and exhibitions on the subject. During this lecture, Alice Minter, Curator of the Rosalinde & Arthur Gilbert, will present some renowned highlights from the collection and the latest information uncovered for these finest pieces.

Speaker:  Alice Minter 

When in 1922, archaeologist Howard Carter opened the tomb of Pharaoh Tutankhamun, he did not expect to discover over five thousand objects. This event, considered as the discovery of the century, had an impact in all the arts and especially in jewelry. While the precious ornaments of the young sovereign were studied by scientists, the passion for ancient Egypt is then revived. Through this lecture, we will return to this discovery, to the jewels and treasures that the tomb revealed, but we will also study Egyptomania which makes Egypt an inspiration that is still current.

Speaker:  Gislain Aucremanne 

Jewellery has always been a way to express the deepest emotions, a bearer of values, meanings, and symbolism. It has always represented a connection with the interiority of the wearer. And what does jewellery mean today for Millennials and Generation Z? Starting from the needs of the younger generations let’s see some of the latest trends in jewelry, connected with many surprising curiosities from the past! Because Jewellery is a synonym of joy and wonder that crosses all eras and cultures from history until modern times.

Speakers: Laura Inghirami, David Brough and Marianne Fisher

Les jeunes et les métiers  de la joaillerie : Les parcours de formation face aux enjeux du secteur et aux demandes des entreprises

Speakers: Donatella Zappieri, Elizabeth Fisher, Emmanuelle Garcia-Gavillet, Catherine de Vincenti et Allen Adler

The interest in jewelry heritage is increasingly shared. Since the 1980s, the major jewelry houses have begun to think about how to highlight the treasures contained in their archives, build a collection of vintage pieces, and develop links with museums and cultural institutions. Given the enthusiasm of the public, the last twenty years have seen the appearance of many initiatives: courses and training, publication of books and organization of exhibitions…

This panel discussion, which brings together specialists from different backgrounds, aims to discuss the value of jewelry heritage today.

Speakers: Vivienne Becker, Amanda Triossi, Vanessa Cron, Juliet de la Rochefoucauld

In the last 100 years, the discovery of gemstones across the African continent have changed the course of the coloured gemstone industry. For the past two years, journalist and storyteller, Richa Goyal Sikri has been interviewing known and unknown figures in the industry and writing adventure stories based on their experiences and actual events.

The objective? To document moments from the industry’s Africa related history that have remained hidden within personal stories, and to create a collection of stories that would educate while entertaining.

Join us for a very special session with RICHA who will be speaking for the first time about this project, sharing the story behind the book, and provide the audience with an exclusive teaser of this yet to be released publication, only at GemGenève.

Speaker: Richa Goyal Sikri

Si l’Homme a utilisé des pierres comme éléments de parure depuis la nuit des temps, il a aussi toujours essayé de les apprivoiser, de les dompter, de les posséder intimement. La gravure, la sculpture sur pierres est un acte fort pour laisser une empreinte, transmettre un message, maitriser une partie de la puissance de la Nature.

Le glypticien exerce l’art de graver, entailler, sculpter les pierres gemmes. Matières et techniques s’unissent dans la main de l’artiste. Bouteroles et forets, dureté et motifs des gemmes, intailles, camées et sculptures… Découvrez avec nous quelques-uns des secrets d’atelier.

Dans le cadre de l’exposition « Pierres gravées : Camées, intailles et bagues de la collection Guy Ladrière » qui se tiendra à L’École des Arts Joailliers à Paris du 12 mai au 1er octobre 2022, Philippe Nicolas, Maitre d’Art graveur et sculpteur sur pierres de la Maison Cartier, et Olivier Segura, Gemmologue et Directeur Scientifique à L’École des Arts Joailliers discuteront de l’art unique de la glyptique.

Speakers: L’Ecole (Philippe Nicolas & Olivier Segura)

If Man has used stones as elements of adornment since the dawn of time, he has also always tried to tame and to possess them intimately. Engraving, stone carving is a strong act to leave an imprint, to transmit a message, to master part of the power of Nature.

The glyptician exercises the art of engraving, cutting, sculpting gemstones. Materials and techniques unite in the hand of the artist. Bouteroles and drills, hardness and patterns of gems, intaglios, cameos and sculptures… Discover some of the workshop secrets with us.

As part of the exhibition “Engraved Gems: Cameos, intaglios and rings from the Guy Ladrière Collection” to be held at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts in Paris from May 12 to October 1, 2022, Philippe Nicolas, Master of Art, engraver and stone sculptor from Maison Cartier, and Olivier Segura, Gemologist and Scientific Director at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts will discuss the unique art of glyptics.

Speakers: L’Ecole (Philippe Nicolas & Olivier Segura)

Qu'est-ce que l'émail ? Quand l'émail a-t-il été utilisé pour la première fois ? Comment a-t-il été utilisé à des fins décoratives depuis la Renaissance et les dynasties Ming et Qing ? La table ronde abordera les méthodes et les ingrédients utilisés pour créer les nuances de couleurs des émaux utilisés et les problèmes liés à la restauration et à la transmission. Comment les émaux étaient-ils utilisés en Extrême-Orient ? Quels étaient les supports utilisés ? Quels sont les véritables problèmes liés à l'utilisation des émaux aujourd'hui ?

Speakers: Juliet de la Rochefoucauld, Anita Porchet, Pauline d’Abrigeon, Estelle Fallet, Nathalie Marielloni

As we settle into the 2020s, 100 years after the original Modern Movement, there are signs of a new modernist approach to jewellery design; graphic compositions of form, line, colour and texture, often made possible by new high-tech materials and techniques.

In this talk, jewellery historian Vivienne Becker, curator of the Designer Vivarium, traces the Modernist movement in jewellery from the 1920s to today, with a look at the work of contemporary individual designer-jewellers on show in this year’s Designer Vivarium.

Speaker: Vivienne Becker

La couleur est un des critères majeurs lorsque l’humain essaie de décrire la beauté. C’est d’autant plus vrai en gemmologie où la couleur peut même définir des variétés (e.g rubis pour le corindon rouge).

Certaines couleurs sont même devenues des symboles de l’excellence (Pigeon Blood, Padparacha).

Pendant cette table ronde, le but est d’évaluer l’importance de la couleur dans la gemmologie, autant pour l’évaluation sur le marché que pour sa définition scientifique.

Speakers: l'Association Gemmologie et Francophonie, Boris Chauviré, Féodor Blumentritt, Jean-Pierre Chalain, Marie Chabrol, Céline-Rose David, Hélène Robert

As the flow of coloured gemstones from traditional deposits has reduced to a trickle, Africa has emerged as the primary source of gemstones feeding our voracious appetite for colour.

However, when we look at the price of a precious gem with an Africa tag, it continues to be ranked below better known sources such as Colombia, Myanmar (Burma), Ceylon, Brazil, Kashmir.

Join us for an in-depth discussion related to gemstones from Africa. We shall discuss African gem history, important discoveries, factors that influence value appreciation, supply, demand, and distribution.

Speakers: Richa Goyal Sikri, Dharmendra Tank, David Nassi, David Bennett, Tony Brooke

During this panel discussion, 5 jewellery experts come together to explore the emotional connection we have to jewellery and its effect on people. Speakers will unpack why we are so drawn to jewellery, and how it is cherished by societies across the globe throughout the centuries – even through the toughest times!

If you are passionate about jewellery and want to learn more about why and how, then this is the perfect panel for you. You can expect to hear what experts consider when choosing a piece of jewellery for purchase, why jewellery shopping remains strong both off and online, what designers consider when creating a perfect jewel and how wearing jewellery evokes emotion.

Join us and discover what is it about jewellery that triggers deep feelings of passion, sentimentality, and awe that we are always chasing in the jewellery industry!

Speakers: Katerina Perez, Frédéric Mané, Antonio Seijo, Olga Brovchuk, Vivienne Becker

This talk is informative but at the same time it is an entertaining presentation which will introduce the audience to the stylistic development of the necklace.
The lecture will touch upon the origin in the Western world of the necklace and then focus on more recent times.

This overview will enable the audience not only to appreciate the extraordinary stylistic development of the necklace which is linked largely to the changes of fashion but also it will enable jewellery amateurs to appreciate all aspects that determine the value of a particular jewelled ornament.

The talk will be presented with exciting visual material which illustrates not only jewels but also the wearers as seen in contemporary portraiture, famous paintings and in fashion photography.

Speaker: Amanda Triossi 

The art of enamel in Russia is intricately tied to the ancient cultural traditions of the Byzantine Empire, which spread to the territory of Egypt, France, and Italy, becoming the foundation of the technical traditions of enamel art in these countries.

Already in the 4th century BC, the Tauric Peninsula was known for golden jewelry produced by artful Greek masters, using filigree and cloisonné techniques. The techniques of the Greeks were inherited and applied at the end of the 19th century by the master artisans of Fabergé, earning golden medals for their brand at the 1882 All-Russia Exhibition in Moscow and the Nuremberg Exposition of 1885.

The influx of foreign artisans and teachers from European countries to Russia was encouraged since the times of Peter the Great.

Diplomatic ties with France at the beginning of the 19th century – especially during the reign of Alexander III — stimulated cultural exchange between these two allied countries. Such ties were without doubt mutually beneficial and complemented each other.

Speakers: Fondation Fabergé – Dr. Bernard Ivaldi, Alexandra Blin Kourbatoff

* Public vote and award to the selected HEAD x GTG x GemGenève project, in partnership with SSEF – n°D57

* Public vote and award to the selected ETVJ – CFP Arts Geneva project Gender Fluid, in partnership with the SSEF and the Association Romande des Métiers de la Bijouterie (ASMEBI) – n°D55

* Eric Horovitz Foundation Award: The Eric Horovitz Foundation will once again reward a student who has participated in the ETVJ-CFP Arts Genève project. The student will be offered personalized support according to his or her professional project (training, assistance in finding an internship or a job, purchase of equipment).

In this talk, jewelry historian Vivienne Becker tells the life story of Aldo Cipullo, most famous as the creator of the iconic Cartier Love bracelet and the Juste un Clou Nail. She explains the background to her new book on Cipullo, her research, discoveries and her work with Aldo’s brother, Renato Cipullo. She charts the course of Cipullo’s career, from David Webb and Tiffany, to Cartier and finally his own company, and shows the depth and breadth of his talent, the richness of his influences and inspirations, the full range and scope of his designs, highlighting how he captured the spirit, energy and social and cultural revolution of New York in the 1970s.

Speaker: Vivienne Becker 

This talk will introduce Marina B striking jewels, undoubtedly among the most iconic designs of the 1980s designed by Marina Bulgari Spaccarelli - a member of the Bulgari family and one of the most outstanding 20th century female high jewellery designer. The genesis of Marina B designs, her innovations and her legacy will be explored and explained. Marina Bulgari's courage in leaving her paternal established family business, her fascinating and successful professional life, her determination as a world class athlete coupled with personal tragedy, will fascinate and inform the audience.

Speaker: Amanda Triossi 

En 1925, se tient à Paris l’Exposition internationale des Arts décoratifs et industriels modernes, accueillant 21 pays et 15 000 exposants. Cet événement majeur va relancer les industries du luxe et asseoir un style que l’on nommera plus tard « Art déco », en hommage à cette exposition. Si Paris a été le lieu de développement de cette tendance, ses inspirations et son succès se diffuseront à l’international. La décoration des ambassades françaises à l’étranger ou celle des grands transatlantiques vont propager un style fabuleux, de New York à Marrakech, de Rio à Shanghai… Venez découvrir les sources de l’Art déco, un style que la joaillerie a adopté avec bonheur dans l’entre-deux-guerres et qui continue de nous passionner aujourd’hui.

Speakers: Gislain Aucremanne & Inezita Gay-Eckel 

In 1925, the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts was held in Paris, welcoming 21 countries and 15,000 exhibitors. This major event revived luxury industries and established a style that would later be called "Art Deco", in homage to this exhibition. If Paris was the place of development of this trend, its inspirations and its success would spread internationally. The decoration of French embassies abroad or that of the great transatlantic cruise ships would spread a fabulous style, from New York to Marrakech, from Rio to Shanghai... Come and discover the sources of Art Deco, a style that jewelry happily adopted between the two World Wars and which continues to fascinate us today.

Speakers: Gislain Aucremanne & Inezita Gay-Eckel 

"De l’épouse d’Henry VIII, exécutée en 1536 à ses représentations contemporaines, en passant par l’opéra de Donizetti, la figure d’Anne Boleyn a traversé les âges et gagné le statut d’icône.
Comment l’image de celle dont on n’a que des représentations posthumes – le fameux portrait au « collier initiale » - nous parle du rapport de notre société à la séduction, au pouvoir et à l’affirmation de soi ?
De la cour d’Henry VIII à la scène du Grand Théâtre de Genève, du bijou Renaissance aux chaînes des rappeurs, Vanessa Cron (historienne du bijou), Valentina Brugnatelli (designer de bijoux) et Clara Pons (Dramaturge du Grand Théâtre de Genève) vous entraîneront sur les traces de cette femme du passé dont l’ombre a réussi à traverser les siècles, et à habiter le monde contemporain."

Speakers: Vanessa Cron, Valentina Brugnatelli, Clara Pons & Sabryna Pierre 

"Traçabilité et durabilité sont au centre des nouvelles exigences de l’horlogerie et la joaillerie.
Cette table ronde offre une occasion d’examiner les aspects les plus importants de la chaîne de valeur des matières premières précieuses. Les intervenants de ce forum devraient parler des progrès réalisés, discuter des obstacles et des lacunes qui existent ainsi que des solutions innovantes pour les surmonter.
L’auditoire sera encouragé à prendre part aux débats à travers des questions et des commentaires."

Speakers: Association Gemmologie & Francophonie - Aurelien Delaunay, Jean-Pierre Chalain, Faye Caris, Karin Schmoker, Sandiah Kangoute, Nawat Ait-Hocine, Franck Paucod, Boris Chauviré, Chloé Picard, Marie Chabrol & Marie Bonnet  

Creativity helps us see things differently, develop a unique sense of style and stand apart from the competition. This distinctive viewpoint can often be seen in jewellery design, photography, and the way brands communicate their USP. In this talk moderated by jewellery expert and brand consultant, Katerina Perez, you will learn how to apply creativity to your business and how to come up with original ideas.

Speaker: Katerina Perez

Flipping through fashion magazines, let’s see how jewellery has been presented, worn and styled decades after decades, from 1900 to 2000. A complete timeline on the evolution of jewellery designs, fashion and styles, from the opulent Belle Epoque to the flashy 1990s.

Speaker: Vanessa Cron

The talk will provide an overview of jewels depicted in Italian portraits during the 1400 and 1500. Portraits of this period provide an invaluable record of jewellery of the time as little of it has survived, they illustrate the fashionable types of ornaments that range from lavish gem-encrusted hairnets to bejewelled furs known as zibellini. Furthermore, especially in the 1400 the majority of important painters, such as Botticelli, Ghirlandaio and Verrocchio were trained also as goldsmiths hence the accuracy in the depiction of the jewels due to their intimate familiarity with the jewelled arts. Their appreciation for jewels led these artists to depict abundantly also jewels in religious subject paintings. The differences and similarities between those depicted in secular images will be explored and explained, unveiling some secrets.

Speaker: Amanda Triossi 

"The gem and jewellery industry has seen great change, development, and most recently, upheaval. Markets have experienced both growth and fluctuation on a massive scale and sale results have remained hot discussion points.

Yet so often pricing is only ever discussed without a larger context. Much of our price and value knowledge comes from recent, living memory, but what do we know about gem pricing in the recent and even distant past? How have we got to where they we are today, compared with a hundred, or more, years ago; how has our concept of prices and value changed? This talk will address the importance of history, historical examples and models, with special references to ruby in particular, and investigate shifts in the gem market from the perspective of the bigger picture. "

Speaker: Helen Molesworth 

"In the last couple of years, a piece of jewelry has become more than just an accessory but precisely an item topping a look or a silhouette affirming a particular taste or style. From a B-to-C perspective, the idea of this talk is to bring a vision on the jewelry industry within brands, trends, markets, talents and newcomers.
What are the current brands in trend ? What piece of jewelry is on the it-list ? Who are the fine jewelry or even high jewelry brands who managed in the last decade to steal portion of the market to institutional brands ? Overall, has jewelry become affordable ?

Speaker: Eleonor Picciotto 

"Together with cut and carat, colour and clarity are half of the 4 ‘C’s of diamonds. In coloured gemstones they are two of many more numerous factors in understanding value but they are arguably still the most important. But they are not as simple as they sound: both affect value positively and negatively, with physical, emotional and even historical associations.

This talk will explore the significance of both colour and clarity, what causes and creates them, how they make some gems particularly special, and why they matter most when it comes to value in coloured gems. "

Speaker: Helen Molesworth 

"The fields of jewelry and gems have always been part of larger shifts in culture. Forecasting requires a wide scope to encompass cultural, economic and technological issues that have an impact on consumers’ choices and spending habits. Mega trends cross industry lines because they involve shifts in lifestyles, reflecting changes in generational cohorts, or mirroring cycles in the economy.
The talk will focus on the in-depth analysis of why and how mega trends influence the latest creations in jewelry as well the reasons behind the preference for specific stones and cuts. It will offer a pragmatic approach towards the understanding of the notion of “Zeitgeist” and the key role it plays in the evolution of jewelry design, jewelry manufacturing as well as the jewelry and gem industry."

Speaker: Donatella Zappieri