3-6 November 2022
DIGITAL ROOMS

Recorded Talks

MAY 2022

How to enhance the value of Jewellery heritage? 

Speakers: Vivienne Becker, Amanda Triossi, Vanessa Cron, Juliet de la Rochefoucauld

  • Description

    The interest in jewelry heritage is increasingly shared. Since the 1980s, the major jewelry houses have begun to think about how to highlight the treasures contained in their archives, build a collection of vintage pieces, and develop links with museums and cultural institutions. Given the enthusiasm of the public, the last twenty years have seen the appearance of many initiatives: courses and training, publication of books and organization of exhibitions…

    This panel discussion, which brings together specialists from different backgrounds, aims to discuss the value of jewelry heritage today.

    Speakers: Vivienne Becker, Amanda Triossi, Vanessa Cron, Juliet de la Rochefoucauld

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New Book - GEM ADDICTS - Hidden human stories from Africa 

Speaker: Richa Goyal Sikri

  • Description

    In the last 100 years, the discovery of gemstones across the African continent have changed the course of the coloured gemstone industry. For the past two years, journalist and storyteller, Richa Goyal Sikri has been interviewing known and unknown figures in the industry and writing adventure stories based on their experiences and actual events.

    The objective? To document moments from the industry’s Africa related history that have remained hidden within personal stories, and to create a collection of stories that would educate while entertaining.

    Join us for a very special session with RICHA who will be speaking for the first time about this project, sharing the story behind the book, and provide the audience with an exclusive teaser of this yet to be released publication, only at GemGenève.


    Speaker: Richa Goyal Sikri

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L'Art de la Glyptique

Speakers: L’Ecole (Philippe Nicolas & Olivier Segura)

  • Description

    Si l’Homme a utilisé des pierres comme éléments de parure depuis la nuit des temps, il a aussi toujours essayé de les apprivoiser, de les dompter, de les posséder intimement. La gravure, la sculpture sur pierres est un acte fort pour laisser une empreinte, transmettre un message, maitriser une partie de la puissance de la Nature.

    Le glypticien exerce l’art de graver, entailler, sculpter les pierres gemmes. Matières et techniques s’unissent dans la main de l’artiste. Bouteroles et forets, dureté et motifs des gemmes, intailles, camées et sculptures… Découvrez avec nous quelques-uns des secrets d’atelier.

    Dans le cadre de l’exposition « Pierres gravées : Camées, intailles et bagues de la collection Guy Ladrière » qui se tiendra à L’École des Arts Joailliers à Paris du 12 mai au 1er octobre 2022, Philippe Nicolas, Maitre d’Art graveur et sculpteur sur pierres de la Maison Cartier, et Olivier Segura, Gemmologue et Directeur Scientifique à L’École des Arts Joailliers discuteront de l’art unique de la glyptique.

    Speakers: L’Ecole (Philippe Nicolas & Olivier Segura)

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The Glyptic Arts 

Speakers: L’Ecole (Philippe Nicolas & Olivier Segura)

  • Description

    If Man has used stones as elements of adornment since the dawn of time, he has also always tried to tame and to possess them intimately. Engraving, stone carving is a strong act to leave an imprint, to transmit a message, to master part of the power of Nature.

    The glyptician exercises the art of engraving, cutting, sculpting gemstones. Materials and techniques unite in the hand of the artist. Bouteroles and drills, hardness and patterns of gems, intaglios, cameos and sculptures… Discover some of the workshop secrets with us.

    As part of the exhibition “Engraved Gems: Cameos, intaglios and rings from the Guy Ladrière Collection” to be held at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts in Paris from May 12 to October 1, 2022, Philippe Nicolas, Master of Art, engraver and stone sculptor from Maison Cartier, and Olivier Segura, Gemologist and Scientific Director at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts will discuss the unique art of glyptics.

    Speakers: L’Ecole (Philippe Nicolas & Olivier Segura)

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Enamel: the art of fire & colour

Speakers: Juliet de la Rochefoucauld, Anita Porchet, Pauline d’Abrigeon, Estelle Fallet, Nathalie Marielloni

  • Description

    Qu'est-ce que l'émail ? Quand l'émail a-t-il été utilisé pour la première fois ? Comment a-t-il été utilisé à des fins décoratives depuis la Renaissance et les dynasties Ming et Qing ? La table ronde abordera les méthodes et les ingrédients utilisés pour créer les nuances de couleurs des émaux utilisés et les problèmes liés à la restauration et à la transmission. Comment les émaux étaient-ils utilisés en Extrême-Orient ? Quels étaient les supports utilisés ? Quels sont les véritables problèmes liés à l'utilisation des émaux aujourd'hui ?

    Speakers: Juliet de la Rochefoucauld, Anita Porchet, Pauline d’Abrigeon, Estelle Fallet, Nathalie Marielloni

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New Modernism – 1920s-2020s The Modernist Movement in Jewels 

Speaker: Vivienne Becker

  • Description

    As we settle into the 2020s, 100 years after the original Modern Movement, there are signs of a new modernist approach to jewellery design; graphic compositions of form, line, colour and texture, often made possible by new high-tech materials and techniques.


    In this talk, jewellery historian Vivienne Becker, curator of the Designer Vivarium, traces the Modernist movement in jewellery from the 1920s to today, with a look at the work of contemporary individual designer-jewellers on show in this year’s Designer Vivarium.

    Speaker: Vivienne Becker

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La couleur en gemmologie : nature et culture 

Speakers: l'Association Gemmologie et Francophonie, Boris Chauviré, Féodor Blumentritt, Jean-Pierre Chalain, Marie Chabrol, Céline-Rose David, Hélène Robert

  • Description

    La couleur est un des critères majeurs lorsque l’humain essaie de décrire la beauté. C’est d’autant plus vrai en gemmologie où la couleur peut même définir des variétés (e.g rubis pour le corindon rouge).


    Certaines couleurs sont même devenues des symboles de l’excellence (Pigeon Blood, Padparacha).


    Pendant cette table ronde, le but est d’évaluer l’importance de la couleur dans la gemmologie, autant pour l’évaluation sur le marché que pour sa définition scientifique.

    Speakers: l'Association Gemmologie et Francophonie, Boris Chauviré, Féodor Blumentritt, Jean-Pierre Chalain, Marie Chabrol, Céline-Rose David, Hélène Robert

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The Value in African Gems

Speakers: Richa Goyal Sikri, Dharmendra Tank, David Nassi, David Bennett, Tony Brooke

  • Description

    As the flow of coloured gemstones from traditional deposits has reduced to a trickle, Africa has emerged as the primary source of gemstones feeding our voracious appetite for colour.


    However, when we look at the price of a precious gem with an Africa tag, it continues to be ranked below better known sources such as Colombia, Myanmar (Burma), Ceylon, Brazil, Kashmir.


    Join us for an in-depth discussion related to gemstones from Africa. We shall discuss African gem history, important discoveries, factors that influence value appreciation, supply, demand, and distribution.

    Speakers: Richa Goyal Sikri, Dharmendra Tank, David Nassi, David Bennett, Tony Brooke

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#ILOVEJEWELLERY 

Speakers: Katerina Perez, Frédéric Mané, Antonio Seijo, Olga Brovchuk, Vivienne Becker

  • Description

    During this panel discussion, 5 jewellery experts come together to explore the emotional connection we have to jewellery and its effect on people. Speakers will unpack why we are so drawn to jewellery, and how it is cherished by societies across the globe throughout the centuries – even through the toughest times!


    If you are passionate about jewellery and want to learn more about why and how, then this is the perfect panel for you. You can expect to hear what experts consider when choosing a piece of jewellery for purchase, why jewellery shopping remains strong both off and online, what designers consider when creating a perfect jewel and how wearing jewellery evokes emotion.


    Join us and discover what is it about jewellery that triggers deep feelings of passion, sentimentality, and awe that we are always chasing in the jewellery industry!

    Speakers: Katerina Perez, Frédéric Mané, Antonio Seijo, Olga Brovchuk, Vivienne Becker

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The Necklace, from Antiquity to the Present 

Speaker: Amanda Triossi 

  • Description

    This talk is informative but at the same time it is an entertaining presentation which will introduce the audience to the stylistic development of the necklace.
    The lecture will touch upon the origin in the Western world of the necklace and then focus on more recent times.


    This overview will enable the audience not only to appreciate the extraordinary stylistic development of the necklace which is linked largely to the changes of fashion but also it will enable jewellery amateurs to appreciate all aspects that determine the value of a particular jewelled ornament.


    The talk will be presented with exciting visual material which illustrates not only jewels but also the wearers as seen in contemporary portraiture, famous paintings and in fashion photography.

    Speaker: Amanda Triossi 

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Enamelling! Fabergé's best kept secret 

Speakers: Fondation Fabergé – Dr. Bernard Ivaldi, Alexandra Blin Kourbatoff

  • Description

    The art of enamel in Russia is intricately tied to the ancient cultural traditions of the Byzantine Empire, which spread to the territory of Egypt, France, and Italy, becoming the foundation of the technical traditions of enamel art in these countries.


    Already in the 4th century BC, the Tauric Peninsula was known for golden jewelry produced by artful Greek masters, using filigree and cloisonné techniques. The techniques of the Greeks were inherited and applied at the end of the 19th century by the master artisans of Fabergé, earning golden medals for their brand at the 1882 All-Russia Exhibition in Moscow and the Nuremberg Exposition of 1885.


    The influx of foreign artisans and teachers from European countries to Russia was encouraged since the times of Peter the Great.


    Diplomatic ties with France at the beginning of the 19th century – especially during the reign of Alexander III — stimulated cultural exchange between these two allied countries. Such ties were without doubt mutually beneficial and complemented each other.

    Speakers: Fondation Fabergé – Dr. Bernard Ivaldi, Alexandra Blin Kourbatoff

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Remise de Prix - GemGenève / GemGenève awards ceremony

  • Description

    * Public vote and award to the selected HEAD x GTG x GemGenève project, in partnership with SSEF – n°D57

    * Public vote and award to the selected ETVJ – CFP Arts Geneva project Gender Fluid, in partnership with the SSEF and the Association Romande des Métiers de la Bijouterie (ASMEBI) – n°D55

    * Eric Horovitz Foundation Award: The Eric Horovitz Foundation will once again reward a student who has participated in the ETVJ-CFP Arts Genève project. The student will be offered personalized support according to his or her professional project (training, assistance in finding an internship or a job, purchase of equipment).

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NOV 2021 

Cipullo - Making Jewelry Modern 

Speaker: Vivienne Becker 

  • Description

    In this talk, jewelry historian Vivienne Becker tells the life story of Aldo Cipullo, most famous as the creator of the iconic Cartier Love bracelet and the Juste un Clou Nail. She explains the background to her new book on Cipullo, her research, discoveries and her work with Aldo’s brother, Renato Cipullo. She charts the course of Cipullo’s career, from David Webb and Tiffany, to Cartier and finally his own company, and shows the depth and breadth of his talent, the richness of his influences and inspirations, the full range and scope of his designs, highlighting how he captured the spirit, energy and social and cultural revolution of New York in the 1970s.

    Speaker: Vivienne Becker 

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Marina B 

Speaker: Amanda Triossi 

  • Description

    This talk will introduce Marina B striking jewels, undoubtedly among the most iconic designs of the 1980s designed by Marina Bulgari Spaccarelli - a member of the Bulgari family and one of the most outstanding 20th century female high jewellery designer. The genesis of Marina B designs, her innovations and her legacy will be explored and explained. Marina Bulgari's courage in leaving her paternal established family business, her fascinating and successful professional life, her determination as a world class athlete coupled with personal tragedy, will fascinate and inform the audience.

    Speaker: Amanda Triossi 

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A la découverte des bijoux Art Déco 

Speakers: Gislain Aucremanne & Inezita Gay-Eckel 

  • Description

    En 1925, se tient à Paris l’Exposition internationale des Arts décoratifs et industriels modernes, accueillant 21 pays et 15 000 exposants. Cet événement majeur va relancer les industries du luxe et asseoir un style que l’on nommera plus tard « Art déco », en hommage à cette exposition. Si Paris a été le lieu de développement de cette tendance, ses inspirations et son succès se diffuseront à l’international. La décoration des ambassades françaises à l’étranger ou celle des grands transatlantiques vont propager un style fabuleux, de New York à Marrakech, de Rio à Shanghai… Venez découvrir les sources de l’Art déco, un style que la joaillerie a adopté avec bonheur dans l’entre-deux-guerres et qui continue de nous passionner aujourd’hui.

    Speakers: Gislain Aucremanne & Inezita Gay-Eckel 

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Understanding Art Deco Jewels 

Speakers: Gislain Aucremanne & Inezita Gay-Eckel 

  • Description

    In 1925, the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts was held in Paris, welcoming 21 countries and 15,000 exhibitors. This major event revived luxury industries and established a style that would later be called "Art Deco", in homage to this exhibition. If Paris was the place of development of this trend, its inspirations and its success would spread internationally. The decoration of French embassies abroad or that of the great transatlantic cruise ships would spread a fabulous style, from New York to Marrakech, from Rio to Shanghai... Come and discover the sources of Art Deco, a style that jewelry happily adopted between the two World Wars and which continues to fascinate us today.

    Speakers: Gislain Aucremanne & Inezita Gay-Eckel 

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Anna Bolena : Réécrire la Renaissance 

Speakers: Vanessa Cron, Valentina Brugnatelli, Clara Pons & Sabryna Pierre  

  • Description

    "De l’épouse d’Henry VIII, exécutée en 1536 à ses représentations contemporaines, en passant par l’opéra de Donizetti, la figure d’Anne Boleyn a traversé les âges et gagné le statut d’icône.
    Comment l’image de celle dont on n’a que des représentations posthumes – le fameux portrait au « collier initiale » - nous parle du rapport de notre société à la séduction, au pouvoir et à l’affirmation de soi ?
    De la cour d’Henry VIII à la scène du Grand Théâtre de Genève, du bijou Renaissance aux chaînes des rappeurs, Vanessa Cron (historienne du bijou), Valentina Brugnatelli (designer de bijoux) et Clara Pons (Dramaturge du Grand Théâtre de Genève) vous entraîneront sur les traces de cette femme du passé dont l’ombre a réussi à traverser les siècles, et à habiter le monde contemporain."

    Speakers: Vanessa Cron, Valentina Brugnatelli, Clara Pons & Sabryna Pierre 

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La gemmologie face aux défis sociaux, environnementaux et scientifiques  

Speakers: Association Gemmologie & Francophonie - Aurelien Delaunay, Jean-Pierre Chalain, Faye Caris, Karin Schmoker, Sandiah Kangoute, Nawat Ait-Hocine, Franck Paucod, Boris Chauviré, Chloé Picard, Marie Chabrol & Marie Bonnet  

  • Description

    "Traçabilité et durabilité sont au centre des nouvelles exigences de l’horlogerie et la joaillerie.
    Cette table ronde offre une occasion d’examiner les aspects les plus importants de la chaîne de valeur des matières premières précieuses. Les intervenants de ce forum devraient parler des progrès réalisés, discuter des obstacles et des lacunes qui existent ainsi que des solutions innovantes pour les surmonter.
    L’auditoire sera encouragé à prendre part aux débats à travers des questions et des commentaires."

    Speakers: Association Gemmologie & Francophonie - Aurelien Delaunay, Jean-Pierre Chalain, Faye Caris, Karin Schmoker, Sandiah Kangoute, Nawat Ait-Hocine, Franck Paucod, Boris Chauviré, Chloé Picard, Marie Chabrol & Marie Bonnet  

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Importance of Creativity in Art, Jewellery Design and Brand Communications 

Speaker: Katerina Perez 

  • Description

    Creativity helps us see things differently, develop a unique sense of style and stand apart from the competition. This distinctive viewpoint can often be seen in jewellery design, photography, and the way brands communicate their USP. In this talk moderated by jewellery expert and brand consultant, Katerina Perez, you will learn how to apply creativity to your business and how to come up with original ideas.

    Speaker: Katerina Perez

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Styling  jewellery: The 20th Century  

Speaker: Vanessa Cron

  • Description

    Flipping through fashion magazines, let’s see how jewellery has been presented, worn and styled decades after decades, from 1900 to 2000. A complete timeline on the evolution of jewellery designs, fashion and styles, from the opulent Belle Epoque to the flashy 1990s.

    Speaker: Vanessa Cron

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Jewels in Italian Renaissance Paintings  

Speaker: Amanda Triossi 

  • Description

    The talk will provide an overview of jewels depicted in Italian portraits during the 1400 and 1500. Portraits of this period provide an invaluable record of jewellery of the time as little of it has survived, they illustrate the fashionable types of ornaments that range from lavish gem-encrusted hairnets to bejewelled furs known as zibellini. Furthermore, especially in the 1400 the majority of important painters, such as Botticelli, Ghirlandaio and Verrocchio were trained also as goldsmiths hence the accuracy in the depiction of the jewels due to their intimate familiarity with the jewelled arts. Their appreciation for jewels led these artists to depict abundantly also jewels in religious subject paintings. The differences and similarities between those depicted in secular images will be explored and explained, unveiling some secrets.

    Speaker: Amanda Triossi 

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The Gemstone Market: A Historical Perspective   

Speaker: Helen Molesworth 

  • Description

    "The gem and jewellery industry has seen great change, development, and most recently, upheaval. Markets have experienced both growth and fluctuation on a massive scale and sale results have remained hot discussion points.

    Yet so often pricing is only ever discussed without a larger context. Much of our price and value knowledge comes from recent, living memory, but what do we know about gem pricing in the recent and even distant past? How have we got to where they we are today, compared with a hundred, or more, years ago; how has our concept of prices and value changed? This talk will address the importance of history, historical examples and models, with special references to ruby in particular, and investigate shifts in the gem market from the perspective of the bigger picture. "

    Speaker: Helen Molesworth 

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The Eye on a 360° Jewelry   

Speaker: Eleonor Picciotto 

  • Description

    "In the last couple of years, a piece of jewelry has become more than just an accessory but precisely an item topping a look or a silhouette affirming a particular taste or style. From a B-to-C perspective, the idea of this talk is to bring a vision on the jewelry industry within brands, trends, markets, talents and newcomers.
    What are the current brands in trend ? What piece of jewelry is on the it-list ? Who are the fine jewelry or even high jewelry brands who managed in the last decade to steal portion of the market to institutional brands ? Overall, has jewelry become affordable ?

    Speaker: Eleonor Picciotto 

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Colour and Clarity: The Key to Coloured Gemstones 

Speaker: Helen Molesworth 

  • Description

    "Together with cut and carat, colour and clarity are half of the 4 ‘C’s of diamonds. In coloured gemstones they are two of many more numerous factors in understanding value but they are arguably still the most important. But they are not as simple as they sound: both affect value positively and negatively, with physical, emotional and even historical associations.

    This talk will explore the significance of both colour and clarity, what causes and creates them, how they make some gems particularly special, and why they matter most when it comes to value in coloured gems. "



    Speaker: Helen Molesworth 

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How socio-cultural trends impact jewelry design and the world of gems 

Speaker: Donatella Zappieri 

  • Description

    "The fields of jewelry and gems have always been part of larger shifts in culture. Forecasting requires a wide scope to encompass cultural, economic and technological issues that have an impact on consumers’ choices and spending habits. Mega trends cross industry lines because they involve shifts in lifestyles, reflecting changes in generational cohorts, or mirroring cycles in the economy.
    The talk will focus on the in-depth analysis of why and how mega trends influence the latest creations in jewelry as well the reasons behind the preference for specific stones and cuts. It will offer a pragmatic approach towards the understanding of the notion of “Zeitgeist” and the key role it plays in the evolution of jewelry design, jewelry manufacturing as well as the jewelry and gem industry."



    Speaker: Donatella Zappieri 

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